Paris - No self-respecting gal would ever need a backstage pass if she donned most of the looks in the Christian Dior spring 2009 collection so naughtily chic and suggestively racy were the clothes in the latest collection by John Galliano presented Monday, Sept. 29.


We got another, sassy yet not shocking, dose of two mega trends in the current season at Dior - Eighties silhouettes and a yearn for the symmetry of Ancient Egypt.

Galliano to his credit is never a literal designer, so his jaunt down the Nile was a cool, clever take on all things African, from tribal necklaces to the best series of heels seen on Paris runways in eons. To wit, fetishistic primitive statues of naked women used as four-inch heels that added oomph and humor to some great python, glitter or animal print shoes.

An impressive casting emoted in flirty chiffon minis worn with waxy bomber jackets or taught wee boleros, and a series of great see-through boudoir vampish cocktails and columns looks.

John's other charming idea was his broken mosaic moment featured in the shoes and in some great half-moon bags. Both were strong commercial winners.

The collection was curiously understated for a Galliano designed collection, but then again, given the current financial moroseness, John's sentiments might be right. With many nervous buyers, several lamenting that "we have no open to buy," creating a tightly focused Dior collection seemed to make sense. So steering away from his more avant garde fantasies, and creating a little dose of Dior Light seemed a subtle enough response.

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