New York - A flock of limousines floated outside the Chelsea Museum on Wednesday, Sept. 10, to see Marchesa's latest collection attesting to the pulling power of Georgina Chapman, whose main claim to fame has been creating red carpet looks for the sort of people who star in her husband's, movie mogul Harvey Weinstein's, films.Chapman moved away from her formulaic goddess columns and took a few risks this season, most of which worked. Like the micro wrap dress in black lace nipped at the waist with a oyster hued sash and worn over mesh petal high heels, that was nicely naughty with just the right doze of sauciness; or the one shouldered cocktail dress emblazoned with white fabric lilies that had poise and panache, or an agreeably over the top multi-layered white goddess column that would not look strange on a Paris couture catwalk.
Marchesa for Spring 2009 turned out to be a pretty impressive display of cutting and draping with a clever Chinese veneer and a decent dose of creativity. That said, from a fashion point of view, the collection, like previous shows, never seems that terribly new. Chapman's clear attempt to stretch herself did result in the odd debacle. Though many at the presentation - consisting of 23 looks posed on square white boxes - praised a faded violet chiffon ball gown saying "it was as good as Galliano," the dress appeared histrionic rather than historic.
Doubters may sneer, but Chapman is establishing her own fashion credibility, and doing so on merit and for that she deserves respect.
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