London - Monday marked a fine return to form by Julien Macdonald, as the Welsh designer staged a thoroughly chic spring 2009 collection on the second day of action in London Fashion Week.
Staged in the gilded neo classical opulence of Lancaster House, the collection showed Macdonald at his most stylistically understated, albeit with a gentle soupcon of high wattage slinkiness.
It opened with considerable panache, with a series of beige and sand looks - crisp cocktail dresses, sleek tops and high-waist jodhpur-harem pants that had poise and polish.
Macdonald stepped up the oomph factor with cool waistcoats erratically studded with crystals and then hit a home run with sexy columns, slit up almost to the crotch, and covered in mirrored Art Deco patterns.
Where in other seasons the designer's natural exuberance tended to get the better of him, laying it on too thick in terms of decoration and finish, this season marked a new, mature Macdonald, one who built some needed restraint into his oeuvre.
There was a particularly good middle section with snug snakeskin jackets with sexy rouched dresses and skirts that recalled to mind Macdonald's famous soubriquet as the Welsh Versace. Well, this collection was so assured and wearable and still sexy that one could imagine the late Gianni applauding it heartily. It was that good.
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